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I am at the edge of the Long Island Sound in Stamford, CT. For about 12 days of each month, a little salt water pools maybe 6 – 10 inches in depth after the tide drops. The other days of the month they get rinsed out by the tide. Are these likely to be mosquito breeding pools?

No doubt any visible pools you see or maybe some areas nearby, just a bit further away on the edge of the pools, could hold enough moisture to enable mosquito breeding. Remember, they only need 10-14 days to run through their life cycle so 12 days could be enough time for sure. And though there are just a few species that can breed in salt water, more common species like Asian Tiger mosquitoes, can do so in areas you'd never consider. Such areas typically lay just on the outer edge of high tide levels along the sea shore.

In the past, dealing with such problems has generally been tough because traditional pesticides are prohibited from being used around lakes, rivers, oceans, etc. But several years ago, Essentria IC came to market which is ideally suited for sensitive areas.

Made from food grade actives, Essentria can be misted or fogged over water and does a good job of controlling noseeums, mosquitoes, gnats and other biting pests. Use it with any of the foggers we have listed in our Mosquito Control article and you should be able to make sure these areas aren't breeding pesky mosquitoes. For small areas, the FM6309 would do fine. For large areas, the Back Pack Mister Blower would be the way to go.

Essentria IC3: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

Back Pack Mister: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

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Guys,

I live inside a golf course and we already have a misting system installed. I'm using pyrethrin from the beginning but I think it is too expensive with no residual effects at all. We have a big volume of mosquitoes and patio is almost unusable. I read the article about nylar and other options you recommend. Which is your recommendation for a good 55 gallon mix??? Misting can be setup to run daily as many times as desired with 5,10,20,30 seconds duration each. Thanks a lot!!

If you review our Mosquito Control article, you'll see we mention products like Permethrin, Bifen, Pyrethrin, Nylar and ECO IC. All of these work well for regular spraying and for use in the portable fogging machines we list in our article.

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Now for automatic fogging systems, you'll do best with either the Permethrin or the ECO MC. Here's some details on these products.

Permethrin is similar to Pyrethrin in that it's very safe to use. However, the big advantage of permethrin compared to pyrethrin is that permethrin will provide a residual. That means once the mist has dissipated and dried, the active will still be around working on nuisance pests like mosquitoes, gnats, biting flies, etc.

Permethrin SFR: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/perm-sfr

The ECO MC is an active that came out a few years ago which has proven to be very effective on flying insects. Specifically formulated for use in automated machines, you'll need to add the MC and the Emulsifier to the tank. These are two separate products and can be seen here:

ECO MC: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-exempt-org-mc-12-gal

ECO Emulsifier: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/eco-exempt-org-emuls-12-gal

Either option will prove more effective compared to straight pyrethrin alone. And since pyrethrin prices are so high right now, you'll find either of these options more cost effective too.

One thing I feel I should mention is that when it comes to using automated machines, it's important to use enough concentrate. We find many people not adding enough to their tank and this is critical or the treatments to work.

For example, if you were using nothing but straight pyrethrin, it would require a lot of concentrate to mix up a valid tank of solution that would work. So if you were using something like our 6% pyrethrin concentrate, you'd have to add 2 oz of the Exciter per gallon of water. That's about 110 oz of Pyrethrin per 55 gallon tank.

6 % Pyrethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/exciter-16-oz

Now if you have any questions on how to mix up the products I listed above, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our tech reps should be able to provide some answers based on your needs.

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Our yard is filled with songbirds and hummingbirds. The mosquitoes are very bad, and we need to use a product to get rid of them. What should we use which will not harm the birds? We are next to water and do not want to harm the fish. Which product do we use and which fogger do we use? Would the Essentria IC3 be a good choice? Which fogger does it work with?

I too have a yard filled with songbirds and hummingbirds. In fact I have several feeders for both and they're filled daily with hundreds of hummingbirds, woodpeckers, cardinals, blue birds and others. I also live on a large river. Suffice to say I also have a nasty problem with gnats, mosquitoes and other biting pests. To combat them, I use BIFEN and my BACK PACK MISTER.

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Back Pack Mister: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

With that being said, I'm 100% sure you could use this set up and not put your birds or water in jeopardy of any kind. The key is making proper, controlled placements and not over doing it. And of course, I don't get close to the water. I stay a good 150 feet away.

So if you too can stay at least 100 feet away from whatever water is close by, the Bifen would be okay to use. But if you want to be extra cautious or if the water is real close to where you need to treat, the ESSENTRIA IC would be the best choice. Let me point out it works just as good as the Bifen. As I see it, the only trade off is cost because it does run a bit more compared to the Bifen but not by much.

Essentria IC3: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

As for what fogger to get? That's really dependent on how much you have to treat. I'm covering 3/4 of an acre which is why I like using the back pack mister. But the FM6309 is a good choice and can handle up to an acre no problem.

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

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Hi,

We live in a Decatur, Ga. neighborhood with lots of trees. I'm a gardener & water frequently to keep plants alive during the summer though we try to eliminate standing water. I grow lots of herbs & some veggies, which we eat, so I'm looking for an eco-friendly choice. Mainly we have lots of the Asian tiger mosquitos that are out biting all day long. Advice?

We're right down the road from you in Lilburn GA and know the tiger mosquitoes well. In fact we sell many products for this pest. You can read up on all these products as well as the equipment we carry here:

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

As for your situation, there are two things I'd suggest. The first is get a fogger. Depending on the size of the lot you'll be treating, either the MINI FOGGER or the FM6208 will do the job.

Fogmaster Mini Fogger: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-5330-120-volt

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

Personally I prefer the MIST BLOWER but that's because I'm treating an acre with a lot of leafy brush so I need something versatile and mobile. The back pack mister makes fast work of my lot and lets me go anywhere without the restraint of an electric cord.

Back Pack Mister: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

Now since I'm not growing anything I eat, I mostly mist with BIFEN. It's odorless, won't hurt any plant, easy to mix and works well on all pests.

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

But since you're growing plants which will yield edible fruit or vegetables, I recommend going with the EVERGREEN PYRETHRIN. It can be sprayed on edible crops and will work just as well as the Bifen for the short term.

Now what I mean by the "short term" is that side by side, both products will kill most everything within a day of being applied. From there the difference in the two is that the Bifen will last a good 1-2 weeks. Maybe even longer.

But the Evergreen will be gone within just a day. Evergreen uses a "pyrethrin"active so it won't provide any type of lasting residual. This is mostly for safety reasons since you'll be spraying edible crops.

Evergreen: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/exciter-16-oz

Now don't think you're sacrificing much using the Evergreen in place of the Bifen. Remember, when you treat with either you'll be killing most everything in the area. And that means you'll be pest free for awhile since it will take some time before the local pests come back to the treated area and re establish themselves.

Just how long that takes will vary from yard to yard. But if you can get a couple of weeks without pests, then the tradeoff would be non existent. But obviously if the pests come back in a day or two, you might want to opt for using the Bifen in the "non edible plant" area and the Evergreen on the vegetable garden only.

Good luck!

Jonathan
Customer Care

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Hello,

I live on Long Island and have a canal in my backyard. Lately the Mosquitos have been so unbearable that I've had to abandon going outside without getting bitten. I've been using candles and deep woods off but was wondering if you had any other suggestions to rid these terrible insects. Anything you can provide would be a great help. Thank you!

I'd abandon the repellents and go for a real control treatment regime based on where you live and the fact that repellents aren't really "controlling" anything. We have several very effective treatments listed in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE but based on where you live, most of our traditional products can't be used. But don't fret; we do have one very effective option that can control mosquitoes and I believe it is the answer for your situation.

And what I mean by your "situation" is that when trying to spray anything around water, there is usually a big limit on what you can apply safely in such an environment. For mosquito treatments which are close to or adjacent to water like ponds, lakes, streams, canals, etc., there is only a couple of concentrates safe enough to be applied. One of my favorites is known as ESSENTRIA IC.  This product is actually federally exempt from needing to be registered because it's made primarily from food grade actives. These actives have long been known to work on various pests and because they're made from safe to use actives, they enjoy a label that allows them to be applied most anywhere.

You'll need a good fogging machine to apply the Essentria and which one you get should be large enough to handle the amount of property you need to treat. We have several electric units that can handle up to 1 acre effeciently and two popular models include the FOGMASTER JUNIOR and the FOGMASTER 6309. I live on a largely wooded lot that's about 1 acre and prefer to go "cordless" so I use the BACK PACK MISTER. Any of these units can do the job and based on what I know about the lot size on most long island homes, I'm guessing you have less than an acre to treat. If that's the case, all of these models should work fine.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Essentria IC3: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

Fogmaster Mini Fogger: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-5330-120-volt

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

Back Pack Mister: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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Hi!

I own a 1.75 acre property with about .75 wooded wetlands bordering 200 acres of wooded wetlands. I use larvae control in all standing water around the house, two propane fired mosquito magnets and a Black Flag propane fogger. The fogger is the most effective but only lasts a day with the chemicals provided. I'm interested in the Permethrin Vegetable Plus with Nylar either in a form I can use with the fogger I have or with a delivery device you recommend.

First, I'm a bit concerned about the mosquito magnets you mention. I just know that based on where you're located, I would be careful with where the mosquito magnets are located. I say this because over the years, we've found many customers using them when located close to large amounts of woodlands were actually attracting so many mosquitoes to their homes that the machines were not able to take care of them fast enough. The net result has been that yes, the machines were no doubt killing some but because of the numbers that were coming around and essentially "missing" the machines, not using the machines turned out to be a better strategy.

In other cases it was learned that placing them further away from the structure helped. This way they were essentially luring the biting pests away from where the home owners wanted to be hanging out. But the main point is that you need to remember if you have them out, they're attracting a lot of biting pests and in so many cases where we've seen them used, they end up bringing around a lot of pests which become a nuisance and aren't controlled well enough by the magnets so we want you to understand that they could in fact very well be making the problem "worse" compared to what you'd experience if you turn them off.

As for the products you're thinking about using; no doubt the VEGETABLES PLUS PERMETHRIN and NYLAR would be good options. They can be mixed with water and applied as frequently as you want. And they'll no doubt prove more effective and cost efficient compared to the solutions you must use in any propane fogger. I personally use BIFEN because it's longer lasting and even more cost effective but it's not labeled for use on any plant that's edible so stick with the Vegetables Plus if you have edible plants on your property (like a vegetable garden or fruit trees).

As for the equipment? Forget the propane fogger. It's just not strong enough. Go with the SOLO BACK PACK MISTER. It's fast, strong and ideal for such treatments. I use it on my 1 acre lot and I go through 2-3 gallons to treat the entire area which I can do in 10 minutes because this machine is so efficient to use.

Lastly, if you find biting pests coming around within 2-3 days following a treatment with our products, turn off your magnets and stop using them. As I stated above, in most every case I've never seen where they can manage the populations they attract well enough to warrant their use when they're employed around properties that can generate huge amounts of biting pests. So do keep this in mind  that they can often times attract much more than they can handle and that effectively causes more issues.

Now one way to find out if this is true is to simply turn them off. And once you do, it would not be surprising if you noticed a huge decrease in how many are coming around which should in turn enable you to get much better and longer lasting results with the fogging compounds.

Vegetables Plus Perm: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/veg-plus-10-perm

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Back Pack Mister: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

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I live on a river in Jacksonville Florida and have been using a mosquito trap for mosquito control. The trap uses propane and bait to lure mosquitoes to meet their doom either stuck to fly paper or trapped by a small fan that sucks them into a death chamber. I have never tried fogging, so I wish to know which you recommend and why. Please advise and thanks.

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see we don't even list mosquito traps. There are many reasons for this and here are just a few.

First, mosquito traps do not control local populations. No doubt they can catch some. Maybe even a lot. But you'll still have mosquitoes throughout the property and in our experience, the mosquitoes caught do not impact the local population enough to make a difference.

Second, it only takes a few mosquitoes to ruin the day. One can bite several times and will no doubt do so once it finds food. Since using traps will leave a significantly higher population of mosquitoes on the property where they're installed compared to fogging, there is simply not enough of a reduction to make a difference and in the end, the bites will continue.

Third, fogging is so effective, easy to do and way more practical, why wouldn't you do it? In fact you can continue to use as many traps as you wish because the two can be used simultaneously. So if you love your mosquito trap but want to take out more local mosquitoes, keep it. Just realize that if you're fogging properly, you won't be finding nearly as many trapped and eventually, you will get to the point where you're just not catching any. This is when you'll know you're fogging correctly because you really can eliminate mosquitoes from any normal sized, average home lot of land.

Lastly, since mosquitoes can breed in so many areas around most any home, it's not possible to strategically locate enough traps for them to intercept every  mosquito that will fly on your property. In fact when you take this into consideration, what we find on most lots is that a single trap can really only affect 10-20 % of the areas where mosquitoes will live and breed. And if they have to pass by you to get to a trap, it won't happen. They'll stop first where they find people every time. This means in order to use traps effectively, you'll need a bunch placed out working around the clock. Besides the inordinate cost, they'll be a bit of an eyesore. Fogging will enable you to deal with any mosquito hot spot with immediate results and no unsightly devices littering the landscape.

If you haven't read through our article, I suggest you take the time to review it in detail. We've got several sized foggers all of which can do the job and once you're armed with the right piece of equipment, the mosquitoes that forage on your property won't stand a chance.

Here is a direct link to our article:

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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We live in Tallahassee, Florida and to sum up our environment here: hot, wet, humid, and lots of oak trees- mosquitos love us!! I realize that I will not be able to completely eradicate them from our lives unless I want to move the family to the dessert (which sometimes seems like a good idea,) but I'm looking for ways to lower the population. I have read the mosquito control article and am going to initiate many of your suggestions.

My one, or two, specific questions are:

1) we have a large area under a Live Oak tree that is constantly covered with wet oak leaves. If I remove all of the leaves and try to establish St. Augustine grass there, will that at least take care of that particular breeding area? They can't breed in grass correct?

2) I have a few flower beds around the hose that I mulch with pine straw (and of course the falling oak leaves which I can't seem to keep out of my yard.) If I remove the pine straw and replace it with rocks, like the white landscape type or river rocks, will that eliminate that particular breeding area? Can they breed under wet rocks just as well as they breed under wet pine straw?

Please help! I am a mother who loves to let her little boys play outside but they are getting eaten alive in our yard, AKA The Mosquito Resort. Thanks- Sarah P.S. If we ever move I am definitely looking for a house with a big lawn free of shade areas and trees, nothing but grass and sunshine! Did I mention I hate mosquitos?

First, as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL article, mosquitoes are quite capable of nesting and breeding anywhere that provides some moisture and shade. Grass happens to be one of their favorite locations as is pine straw, rocks, mulch, ground cover, vines, etc. Basically anywhere and on anything that can hold moisture. For some reason people seem to think mosquitoes need water – as in large puddles or pools – to breed but in fact there are many species that require just a tad bit of moisture to reproduce. These are the species that wreak havoc on most homeowners. Especially if you lot is well shaded and moist.

Second, though you're effort to remove the leaves and lay sod or small rock may enable the yard to look nicer, don't do this with the hopes that your local mosquito population will decrease. It won't. In fact there is a good chance it will get worse. Here's why.

Dead plants and organic matter like leaves tend to loose moisture way faster compared to anything alive. So once grass or something else living is in place of all the debris, the area will actually hold more moisture (which is needed for the plants now living there) in the plants roots, stems and limbs. It's in these areas where the mosquitoes will thrive very well. And because these areas can maintain and "hold onto" moisture longer than something dead, these areas will actually get worse mosquito wise. As for rocks; because of their odd shape (irregular), we know that rock piles are mosquito heavens because water will invariably collect on the surface of many rocks throughout the hundreds or thousands you disperse. These little puddles will be prime locations for mosquitoes to target and many times they'll be down a few layers, out of direct light and well hidden, making the moisture last much longer than normal which in turn "enables" the mosquitoes to thrive.

In the end, as long as you have shade and moisture, you'll have gnats, no seeums and mosquitoes as the primary biting pests in most any yard here in the  southeast. And that certainly pertains to anyone residing in Florida. The good news is if you fog the property every 1-2 weeks with some NYLAR and BIFEN using a FM6309 or one of our other listed foggers, they'll be gone for good. These treatments are easy to do, fast, effective and safe for the family, pets and environments. As our article explains, mosquitoes are easy to kill and control when using the right products and right equipment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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I manage a historic site in Brunswick, Ga. We are directly on the marsh and have problems with biting flies (deer flies, black flies, yellow flies), mosquitos and sand gnats. I began using a DynaFog Mini-lite 2990 ulv sprayer last year. The primary chemical that I used was permethrin. I had a good deal of success controlling biting flies but was less successful with mosquitos. I am attempting to spray around 40 acres. Our landscape with lots of live oak trees providing plenty of shade. Being on the marsh the environment is, of course, very wet. What chemical or chemicals would you recommend for these insects in my application?

First it sounds like you have ideal equipment but the Permethrin would not be my choice of active to apply. It would explain the mixed results you achieved though based on the size of the area involved, you really need to isolate what we call "mosquito pockets" to get control of this specific pest. More on that later..

For starters, I would change to BIFEN. It's more cost efficient, requires a lot less material to be mixed per tank (good for the environment) and works a lot better compared to permethrin. I use it exclusively for my 1 acre lot (located on the Hootch) and it takes care of everything including roaches and ants so it's plenty strong.

Now if I found that the Bifen alone wasn't lasting long enough, I'd get some NYLAR and add that to the tank mix. This will no doubt interfere with the juveniles of all the pests you mention which in turn would prevent them from developing to breeding adults. This would really help for the long term.

Lastly, if you find yourself hesitant to spray close to the wetlands in fear of contaminating any sensitive areas, get some ECO IC. This active is a "green" product made from essential oils. It's federally exempt yet highly effective for all the pests you want to control. And since it can be applied to sensitive areas without concern of contamination, it's a great choice for these sites where pests are no doubt living and thriving and might otherwise be missed. These are in fact what can turn out to be "mosquito pockets". Marsh land, potted plants, areas with man made irrigation or sprinkler systems, etc. Many times a small pocket can breed thousands of mosquitoes and be missed.

To catch such locatins, it's important to think small which can get tough to do when dealing with 40 acres. But my gut tells me if you look really close to where the mosquito activity is centered, you'll find the hot spot. As our MOSQUITO CONTROL article explains, they don't travel far to find food and basically, can't. That means they must be somewhere close to where people are being bit so be sure to treat these areas well.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

ECO IC: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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I'm exploring options for controlling mosquitoes around our home. We live on 3 acres of woods. We have a wetland behind the house that holds water thru mid summer. We have been using a mosquito magnet with some success, but i'm thinking i would like to use a fogger a few times a season to really knock them down. I'd like a recommendation please. Thanks. Erik

Based on the area you want to treat, I'd go with the BACK PACK FOGGER. These have been out of stock for awhile but we're about to be receiving a big order. Ideally suited for 1/2+  acre lots, you'll be both mobile and independent while using it. I use one for my 1 acre lot but have gone about treating various areas of my subdivision from time to time with the total area in the 2-3 acre range by the time I was through.

As for what to use in the mister; I say start with nothing but the BIFEN. It covers a wide range of pests and works great on flying insects. Plus it's odorless and easy to mix up.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Back Pack Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

Bifen:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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We have a creek in our neighborhood where beavers have built a large damn. There are now some areas of pooled water that stand unless there has been a recent rain. We are concerned about mosquitoes becoming a problem and are looking for a solution that would be as friendly as possible to plant and animal life. Thanks so much for your help!

The best option for this scenario would be the BT DUNKS or BT GRANULES. This product uses naturally occuring bacteria which will kill off developing mosquito larvae. It's safe enough to be used in most any water including a creek like you described and won't impact the fish, birds or other wildlife.

Here is a direct link to the item in our cart:

Dunks:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/bacteria/mosquito-dunks

Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/bacteria/mosquito-bt-granules

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Hi, Y'all.
I've read through your site, and many others.  I see that mosquitoes lay eggs/larvae in fall, and they can last through the winter.
I live in South Texas – sometimes dry, sometimes wet.  I am wondering if I treat [I currently use Cutter backyard which I attach to my hose] several times in the fall and winter if that will reduce the mosquitoes in the spring?
Thanks for any tips you can give me.  I don't like applying the repellent to my skin all spring/summer & fall, and mosquitoes ring the dinner bell when I step outside after 5 or so pm.

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see the product NYLAR GROWTH REGULATOR is mentioned. This product is a juvenile growth hormone and when applied to the landscape where eggs and larvae of insects are thought to be lying, it will effectively prevent them from developing to adults. This would be the best product to use in the yard now and in fact can last upwards of 6 months. No doubt applications can stave off future infestations and if done in the fall, spring and summer, most local populations can be effectively controlled.

At this time I would say to add some to the treatments you're now doing and over time, I'm sure you'll find the problem won't start up nearly as soon nor will it be as persistent throughout the year.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Nylar Growth Regulator:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

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Good evening,


I am looking for a replacement mosquito repellant/barrier I can spray with my ortho dial a spray hose end.


My neighbor and I had Arrow exterminators spray both of our yards all last year with a mixture of "something" and it worked GREAT!! any idea what they use, and do you have something that will work equally, or better?


I am looking for about 30 days per application. Or there about, depending on rainfall


I do have a dog that spends sometime in the backyard who would be in contact with it, as well s a couple guinea pigs that feed on the grass periodically.


Thank you for your time

Chris

"bitten too many times in east atl village "

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn we have a wide range of products that can be sprayed or fogged in the backyard. Several of these can be used in a HOSE END SPRAYER like the one you described above. The rule to follow here is based on the size of the yard involved and the amount of area you'd like to treat. Generally speaking, anything under 5,000 sq/ft is easy to "spray" with a hose end sprayer. Once you get over 5,000, it becomes more laborious and the method of misting and fogging should be considered. Not only does misting require less work, it will save time and money. As our article explains, misting uses a lot less chemical and over the course of season, the savings could be dramatic based on how much less chemical you'll be using. More importantly, mist tends to cover and coat local vegetation in such a way that you'll never be able to duplicate with via a liquid application.

Once you decide if you wish to use the hose end sprayer or one of the FOGGING MACHINES we have listed in our article, the next decision will be to choose a product that can be sprayed. One of the best is the BIFEN. It's odorless, goes a long way and can last 2-4 weeks. I use it around my home every 2-3 weeks and it controls most everything including mosquitoes. Add to it some NYLAR (which controls the egg developing process) and you'll find the length of residual activity to increase. I personally don't use the Nylar I'm okay with treating more frequently. If you want the longest lasting applications, add it to the tank mix and you'll get better results.

In summary, we sell what professional pest control operators use so whatever had been sprayed in your yard we can supply. When used properly, these products can be safely applied in and around the home without undue risk or hazard being presented to people or pets. And with the right equipment and products, you too can tackle your toughest pest problems including mosquitoes. Give us a call if you need further help or assistance. Our local number is 770-985-9392 and we're open Mon-Fri.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Hose End Sprayers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers

Fogging Machines:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

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I've read that some residual insecticides (resmethrin, malathion, permethrin) if applied via a thermal fogger will become a quick knock-down, not a residual treatment.   Do you have any thoughts on this ?

Thank You

Most of the common residual products like BIFEN and PERMETHRIN can be used in either water or an oil based spray. When using a THERMAL FOGGER, you must mix your product choice with some kind of DEODORIZED OIL which no doubt can affect the length of residual the chosen product might provide. Additionally, one of the main variables that can affect the length of time any product can last once applied is heat itself. With thermal foggers the product being applied is no doubt being heated up and this process alone can shorten the length of time the application remains active. Add onto this the impact of the oil base being used as the carrier for the active and it's highly likely that in the end, the use of a thermal fogger will prove to adversely affect the length of time the product you're applying will last. Oil contains solvents which tend to 'break down" actives. For most applications this means a shortened life expectancy.

On the flip side of these shortcomings, there are some reasons why a thermal fogger can be the better option. If you're dealing with a pest which is mostly always airborne and one that rarely "lands", there is no need for a residual to be left behind when treating. A good example would be the METERED FLY MACHINES which use actives like METERED AEROSOL. These release a quick 1 second blast of product which is only active for a short time period and usually in a very small area. Even though they don't provide residual they are quite effective when installed correctly. Thermal foggers can also cover a much larger area than traditional "wet" applications so in theory you can treat a larger area with less chemical and in far less time. Yet if you review our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll note we don't feel the use of a thermal fogger is really needed for the average person treating the average yard.

So in summary, we are of the belief that the use of a thermal fogger can reduce the length of time any residual active ingredient might last when compared to the same active being applied with a water base. But will this really matter? That's the key question to ask here and the answer to this question will require a lot more answers far beyond the scope of this post. Give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 for more information on any of the subject matter cited above and for your convenience, here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

Thermal Fogger:  http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2018.html

Deodorized Oil: http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2021.html

Metered Fly Machines:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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Hello, i have lot of mosquitos in my home and i have babies, what should i do?

As you know, mosquitoes in the home present a direct threat to you and your babies. I suggest you start treating with one of the aerosol products we have featured in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE.

The METERED AEROSOL option can be set up in a few locations around the home where mosquitoes have been found to enter. You get to control when the AEROSOL MACHINES go off and since they will be automatic, there won't be any need for you to worry about when to treat. Just remember to replace the refills when they run dry.

If you prefer to spray at your own leisure, get some AQUACIDE AEROSOL which you'll be able to control manually as needed. Most people find treating in the evening will get most any flying pest problem they might have inside.

Lastly, we also have the organic FLYING INSECT KILLER which would be used exactly the same way as the Aquacide. Just spray a little bit as needed in rooms where the mosquitoes are active and you should be able to keep them under control throughout the summer months.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1926.html

Aquacide Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html

Organic Flying Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/flying-insect-killer-14-oz