2010 Archives


I have a few questions to ask before ordering….
Can a standard sprayer be used with PERMETHRIN?  Would you recommend a special tip?
I ask because on your website information you seem to only show foggers with PERMETHRIN.  At this time 250.00 for a fogger is out of reach, could a Black & Decker Electric Paint Sprayer be used  with a small tip?
Thank you for all the great information on mosquitoes and noseeums. I will be recommending it to my friends.
By the way, we have a small pond in the back yard with limited bushes, mostly just grass and flower beds;  I have been using Malathion over the years with only fair results. I hope PERMETHRIN will do the job!

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, there are many places around the yard this pest can live and breed. The same is true with noseeums. To control these pests fogging is usually the easiest way but not the only way. When dealing with small areas (1/2 acre or less is small enough), liquid spraying PERMETHRIN can do the job. I don’t think using the Electric Paint Sprayer you mentioned would be a good choice since it could very well have contaminates still in it or it’s hose which could affect the permethrin or worse yet something in the yard plant wise. If you go with the concentrated permethrin, either the 20 GALLON HOSE END or the 6 GALLON HOSE END will do the job fine.

And if the area you want to treat is less than 10,000 sq/ft, you might consider the CYONARA RTS which comes with it’s own hose end sprayer. Just attach it to your garden hose and you’re ready to go. Both the permethrin and the cyonara will work much better than the Malathion and since both are pretty much odorless, I know you’ll like using them a lot more 🙂

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:









I am interested in the Fogmaster 6309 Fogger. I have a very bad gnat/mosquito problem. I have a very, very large area of mulch that they are probably nesting in. Is the fogmaster 6309 right for me and do you sell the insecticide (pyrethene??) for it. Also, is it legal in NJ.

Thanks, T.

The FM6309 is one of my favorite foggers for yards 1/2 acre or less. It’s fast, powerful and ideally suited for most any pest control need involving a liquid application. You’ll see we feature it in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE as well and it’s one of our biggest sellers.

The chemicals you should use with the fogger can be seen on our MOSQUITO PRODUCTS page and since we’d be shipping to NJ, I recommend the EXCITER and the PERMETHRIN 10. These will work fine and treatments should last 10-14 days for sure.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:









I have 2 acres next to a slow stream that gives me black flies during the day and mosquitos at night.

They can be extreme….we are talking suffocating farm animals bad.
We have a 5yr old and a 2.5 yr old that we would like to keep for awhile and there is a real potential for them to be carried off 😉

We use about 3/4 of an acre of immediate lawn around the house 90% of the time the rest is avoided due to proximity to the stream.

I would any info/recommendations you may have for this type of application?

Clearly your property is in need of a regular fogging program that encompasses at least 1 of the acres you own. Though this could be done with  an electric fogger, the better choice would be our BACK PACK MISTER. It’s larger capacity and portability would enable you to do the job quickly and effectively. I’m pretty sure weekly treatments would keep these biting pests under control and once you knock them down, you may be able to cut back to treating every 10-14 days.

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, flying pests are able to rebound faster than crawling insects so more treatments are needed throughout their active season. But a combination of the BIFEN and NYLAR will control any biting pests like black flies, no seeums, mosquitoes and midges as long as you stay with the program.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:








Greetings, I hope you can help.

We live in Maryland near DC on a half acre.  We have a huge mosquito and gnat problem, I think exacerbated by the bushes and vegetation that borders our entire yard; although the gnats seem thickest just in the yard, not in the bushes areas.  We have had Orkin spray for mosquitoes all summer for several summers and that does seem to help a lot with the Mosquitoes but does nothing for the gnats.  It is only April and the gnats are so thick that the children refuse to play outside for any length of time.  I am at my wits end.  I have read your whole article about gnats and just wonder if money was no object (not true, but I really want to solve this problem) — what would you recommend I do?

I guess I am leaning toward the backpack fogger and using the three chemicals you suggest (Pyrethin, Permethrin & Nylar).  Is this what you would most recommend?  I’ve never used a fogger — is there a danger to my health to use one?  Should I wear a mask?  And do you explain how to mix all the chemicals?

If there is another approach you suggest, please let me know.

Thank you so much,


First, the BACK PACK MISTER is the way to go. I personally use it for all my spraying (insect wise) and it’s both easy to use and very effective. The end spray is like a heavy mist so it’s kind of like spraying with a small pump sprayer. However, so much product comes out and goes so far I’m able to reach out some 25-30 feet no problem. And it’s a nice wide swath that comes out so it’s like a “shotgun” covering a lot of area. This enables the user to treat huge areas with little effort so for me, it’s well worth the investment. And the only safety equipment that’s really needed is EYE GOGGLES, headgear for the sound of the motor and some SAFETY GLOVES. You shouldn’t really need a mask as the end product really isn’t a fog; it’s a heavy mist. If you locate yourself upwind, the spray will always be moving away from you so there is no risk of getting any on you. If you get a Back Pack Mister, I suggest using it with just water in the tank the first time out to “test” how it works. What you’ll find is that with a little practice you’ll no doubt be able to situate yourself in such a way that there should be no chemical coming back to you during the treatment. This means the safety equipment isn’t really needed but it should be worn “just in case”. For me, the ear protection is key as the sound is much like a “blower” which is loud enough to be bothersome.

Second, since I reside in a heavily vegetated region along the Chattahoochee river, I too have a big problem with both mosquitoes and gnats. And the rain we’ve had the past year is only adding to the problem. During the drought we had the past few years I found I only had to treat once a month. But with all the rain we’re now getting, this has all changed.  Now that it’s wet again (or if I’m irrigating all the time) I find a treatment is needed every 10 days at the start of the season and by June maybe only twice a month will keep me pest free. So I say plan on applying product 3 times a month to start; 2 times a month if you’re able to go that long without major problems. Some people need to treat weekly which would be 4 times a month but that would the most extreme situation and not that common.

As for the best products to use; no doubt what you listed would be great. But if you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll see us recommending just BIFEN and NYLAR. Bifen will effectively replace the Permethrin and Exciter and prove to be more cost effective. We started recommending this mixture last year and found it works quite well. Odorless and long lasting, it’s a strong choice and recent price reductions on this product makes the Bifen a great option.

Now do you even need to use the Nylar? Here’s a good way to judge. In my yard, I have so many breeding grounds on 3 sides of my property there is no way my using it would garner any benefit. So for my tank mix, I’m only using 1 oz of Bifen per gallon of water. I’m not using the Nylar and if you feel you too would have breeding going on directly alongside your property in an area you can’t treat, skipping the Nylar would make sense. But if you think the pests are reproducing on your property, Nylar would no doubt really help because you’ll be able to treat their nest sites and in the end, it will help cut down on the frequency of treatments needed per month. For me, the amount of times I treat per month is acceptable and since I didn’t get much benefit if any when I tried using Nylar, I’ve decided to not include it anymore. Clearly each property is different and this is something you’ll need to decide yourself.

As for how much to product to use? Well, I treat about 1 acre and pretty much all four sides of my home up to the roof line of my very tall house and I use just 2 gallons of finished product per treatment. Mixing is quite easy. I fill the tank with 2 gallons of water and add 2 oz of Bifen and that’s it. No shaking as the movement of the sprayer on my back is all the agitation needed to keep it stirred up. And my lot is heavily vegetated so I’m spraying more than most people but I’m also spraying my entire house too. Also, the Bifen could be diluted down much more as you can see on it’s label but I have so many pests I use it at the higher rate. And again, the price is so low right now it’s a great deal. Over 6 months I’ll go through 1 quart of the product and as you’ll see, this isn’t much cost wise so that doesn’t factor in.

Lastly, there is no “danger” when used according to how we’ve explained. Just be sure to keep the pets and kids out of the yard till the treatment dries and you’ll be fine. I like doing my applications around 8-9 in the morning when the yard is moist from the night before. If I know the sun is coming out it will be dry by 10 AM and my dog and kids can go back out with no concerns. Again, it’s odorless and you won’t even know it’s been applied with the only clue anything is different is noticing there are no bugs around following the treatment 🙂

Here are direct links to the products and information posted above:

Back Pack Mister:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page676.html

Eye Goggles:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/safety_goggles_basic.html

Safety Gloves: http://www.bugspray.com/item/287129.html

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Bifen: http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

Hope this helps!




Which one is better for residual mosquito control:  Bifen, Esfenvalerate, or Eco IC?  Also, is the premixed Cyonara RTS a residual product, or does it only kill when initially applied?


First, all the above listed products provide residual meaning they’ll last for some time after being applied. The CYONARA RTS and the ECO IC will last 2 weeks or more; the ESFENVALERATE can last up to a month and the BIFEN can last several months. However, when treating for mosquitoes, it’s not likely you’ll ever enjoy the full length of residual any one product can provide. There are many reasons why this will happen as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE but the bottom line is most yards will require an ongoing program to solve the infestation problem. This program is something that will based on many variables and in fact the length of time the chemical lasts once applied is actually not one of the more “important” variables.

What is important is how well you treat, how big of an area you treat and the local environment being treated. For example, dry arid areas with little vegetation can go long periods of time in between treatments regardless of the product being used. I’m talking a month or longer. Areas with decent moisture, some shade and adequate vegetation, might be able to go every 2-3 weeks between treatments. Extreme situations, such as those with excessive water, shade and lots of shade, may need to be treated twice a week to stay on top of the problem. My point is the only time the length of residual from the product being applied is really important is when you’re dealing with a dry, arid environment. In such situations controlling mosquitoes and other biting pests is easy.

But if you’re in an area like most people with mosquitoes, it’s probably moist and shady and basically a location where mosquitoes can thrive. If that’s your yard, the real question you need to ask is which way of treating will enable you to get the best protection for the longest period of time. As our article explains, liquid spraying is really only suggested for yards which are 5000 sq/ft or less. When treating 1/4 acre or more, it’s usually best to move onto a fogger of some sort. And when fogging, I prefer the Bifen. I use it in my yard and find I can go 2 weeks or more in between treatments. I live on a acre and treat about 2/3’s of it. Most of the area I treat is shady and moist and ideal for mosquitoes. I also know the length I can go in between treatments varies a lot with the local weather. The past few years we’ve been in a drought and I’ve was able to go 3-4 weeks with no problems. This year is entirely different. We’ve been hit with excessive rain for the past year and I can tell the mosquitoes are thriving. I’m already treating (have been since the end of April) and usually I don’t have to start till June!

In summary, it’s important to realize that killing mosquitoes is easy to do. When treating local property, the real key to obtaining success will be based more upon the equipment you use and not the chemical. If you equip yourself with plenty of “spraying” power – whether in the form of liquid or fog – you’ll find success will be easy to achieve and maintain. But if you try to tackle the problem with not enough “fire power”, it won’t matter what you’re spraying – the mosquitoes will win.

Give us a call if you need advice on what equipment might be best suited for controlling the mosquitoes on your property. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290. And if you’re interested, here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html

ECO IC:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

Esfenvalerate:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page337.html

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Mosquito Control Article: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control


I’ve read quite a few of your posts and mosquito control article.  Very informative, I appreciate all the information.
I have a home in the far northwest suburbs of Chicago on 3 acres.  The front 3/4 acre is mostly clear with the house in the middle.  House has a large deck to the back and a walkout basement with a sunken concrete patio that always seems to have mosquitoes in or around it, could be the drain in the patio? or coming from under the deck?  The deck you can stay on only in full sun or you will get swarmed.
The next 2 acres going to the rear of the property are dense woods, with patches of boggy areas that hold water when it rains on either side, very shady and moist ending in a pond that is my guess about 6 acres with about 6 other houses surrounding it.  From about the end of May til fall I will rarely go into the woods because the mosquitoes are so awful, even covered head to toe in deep woods off they are intolerable!
I love my property but I can’t really enjoy it with the mosquito infestation that I have every year.
I have a Buress thermal fogger that I use occasionally now but the effects seem short lived and it just seems to thin the pack more than get rid of them.  Probably best to use that more regularly, maybe once a week and at least keep the numbers lower?
I have 3 big dogs that are out in the back yard and often chew on the weeds at the edge of the yard,
will any of the products leave a residue on these weeds that would harm my pets if eaten?
From reading your material it looks like the
Bifen with the backpack sprayer would be the logical choice?  Do you suggest the Nylar?
Would this be enough to keep the 2 acres of woods clear of most mosquitoes?
Also, I have a proliferation of Boxelder bugs, and Asian lady beetles in the spring and fall that surround my house and end up in my house, what to use on these?  Could you still use the backpack sprayer at least on the outside of the house for this purpose also?

Thank you in advance for your time.

Thanks for the kind words regarding our site. No doubt we try to present valid mosquito control options and based on our years of experience, we’re usually able to help anyone wanting to control this aggravating pest which can make any property unusable. It sounds like this is happening in your case so I understand your frustration. The good news is you can knock them down enough to enjoy land. The key will be if you’re persistent enough to establish a routine which keeps them under wraps. And don’t try to isolate any one area; in most cases there are so many places for them to thrive it’s much better in the long run to cover it all and be done with it. Focusing in on small areas will naturally lead to disappointment and frustration so thing of it all as being “the problem” and you’ll quickly get the results you want.

At this point, you’ve already identified the best equipment for the job. No doubt the BACK PACK FOGGER is ideally suited for a property the size you have to manage. When misting with BIFEN, I’m sure you can keep mosquitoes, gnats and other nuisance pests under control. Adding NYLAR probably isn’t needed since I’m thinking you’ll be misting at least every 10-14 days if it’s as wet and shady as you’re describing. Right now here in GA we’re getting pounded with rain so I’m on a 10-14 day schedule with my treating. You can read more about the current situation in this post if you haven’t already:


The good news is I can sometimes go much longer in between treatments. So much of it will depend on the weather. Additionally, since you’ve got a healthy population of pests already established, it should be assumed you’ll be needing to treat more this first season compared to subsequent seasons in order to get the local “pest” population down and manageable. Now to answer some more of your questions..

Once a week would be the most anyone should have to treat. I’d try to let it go longer but you may find once a week treating just one acre is good enough. But it could turn out that treating 2 acres every 10-14 days works too. I guess what I’m saying is that there isn’t a specific answer here; a lot will depend on the locale and finding a pattern that works for you and how you intend on using the land. One thing for sure; if you intend on doing some work outside on a Saturday, treating either Friday evening or Saturday morning would be a good idea. I like to treat the morning of any outdoor event so we can garner the best time following the treatment (which is right afterward).

As for product safety; any of our concentrates you choose to use will be so dilute and dispersed over such a large area, there is no risk to your pets, people or plants – even if treated grass was eaten. I’m not saying this should be done or grazing animals can be using it for food. But for the occasional weed being eaten or toy being used on treated grass will be okay. The exposure is barely if at all even measurable with the product being so diluted and dispersed; there just isn’t enough active present to pose a hazard to any mammal.

No doubt the Bifen alone can handle the problem. Again, adding Nylar would probably be smart as it will work on so many other pests so in the long run, you’d be reducing most all invasive pests at the same time thus increasing the impact of your effort with no real change in what you would be doing. In other words, misting with Bifen alone in your tank will require the same amount of effort as misting with Bifen and Nylar. But the net result would be huge in that the Nylar would be affecting so many other pests the Bifen alone probably couldn’t control.

As for the Asian Ladybugs and Boxelder Bugs; no doubt misting the side of your house would stave off their seasonal invasion. I use the Bifen on my house for these two pests, along with stinkbugs, and the treatments work well. But if you run into a bigger problem which the misting alone isn’t handling it, refer to the following articles for more concise strategies:

Boxelder Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html

Asian Ladybug Control: http://www.asianladybug.com/asian-lady-bug-control

I hope this answers most of your questions; here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above. And feel free to call us toll free if you have further quesitons. Our number is 1-800-877-7290. Be sure to ask for Chad or Mike if you call. Cheers!

Back Pack Fogger:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page676.html

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control



Have several ponds with good water movement in my backyard that are filled with goldfish and koi. I am looking for a fogger that is not toxic to fish. Cutter’s backyard bug control has permethrine  that is very toxic to fish.

Do you have some recommendations?



Most every traditional pesticide will have environmental warnings about being “extremely toxic to fish and aquatic marine life”. In general, these warnings are valid and should be taken seriously. No doubt the permethrine is in this category and should be avoided. In fact, most of the products we sell fall into this category. But there are some options.

When it comes to spraying or fogging around small ponds, the two products which are ideally suited for such sites are the ECO IC CONCENTRATE and the ECO MISTING CONCENTRATE. Both are essentially the same; the ECO Misting concentrate is designed for use in automatic fogging systems which need chemicals that can remain stable for long periods of time. If you intend on using a hand held fogger, the ECO IC would be the better option. Made from mostly food grade actives, these products are actually quite effective on many pests including mosquitoes. And because of their inherently safe active ingredients, they’re excellent to use in and around the home compared to traditional products we carry.

ECO IC has a great LABEL which includes many pests but not the scary warning traditional products carry. Typically it’s either sprayed or fogged and both methods to apply the finished spray will work. Since you’re use to using a fogger, I suggest either the FM5330 or the FM6309. You don’t mention how large the area is you intend on fogging which should be taken into consideration when deciding which equipment to purchase (be sure to choose one large enough for the area you want to fog). If you need some help choosing give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

ECO IC Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

ECO Label:  http://www.bugspray.net/labels/eco_exempt_ic_label.pdf

ECO Misting Compound for Automatic Foggers:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-misting-concentrate

FM 5330 Fogger:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-5330-mini-fogger

FM 6309 Fogger:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-6309-fogger


I have bats in my yard. I also hae lots and lots of mosquitos. If I use a fogger to kill some of the mosquitos will it hurt the bats? Are they going to injest mosquitos with insecticide in/on them?

There would be no danger to the local bats nor is there any chance of them getting sick if you started to fog in your yard to control the local mosquito population. There are several reasons; the following are but just three.

First, insecticides target insects. Though earlier products were “strong” enough to affect non target organisms like mammals, the latest products (and the ones we endorse) aren’t anything like their earlier ancestors. In fact, most every product that poses any hazard to the environment, people or pets has been taken off the market. Today’s actives are as safe as can be and are allowed to be produced only if they prove they’re safe. To prove their safety, they must undergo rigorous testing with one of the main objectives being exposure to non target animals won’t be a threat. With this being the case, we are certain the items we have listed in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE for fogging won’t be a danger to the plants, people or animals when used as directed. The real hazard is in the storage of these products since they are concentrated. One must be sure to keep them out of reach to children and pets. But once mixed and diluted down, the finished spray is mild and in fact so safe that many of the products we have listed include labeling for use directly on animals! Remember, dogs, horses and other animals will readily lick themselves so if these products can be sprayed on them and then the animal licks themselves, aren’t they ingesting some? Absolutely. And the only way these products would have a label that allows them to be sprayed on animals would be if in doing so, the animals were not putting themselves in danger. And though a bat might be smaller than a dog or horse, there is just no way they’d ever be able to get a significant amount of pesticide from any mosquito they were to eat.

Second, it’s important to understand how the products work when fogged around the home. Remember, mosquitoes are able to fly. They’re also able to hide amongst the brush and thick vegetation where they prefer moisture and shade. Only when actively feeding will they emerge. The use of a fog is an effective way to target an otherwise elusive pest that can avoid most standard liquid treatments. Fogs and mists will fly around and stay airborne for several minutes. During this time they’ll envelope the area being treated, which should be low to the ground in the 1-8 foot range. Most mosquitoes will stay in the 1-4 foot range as the bulk of “food” for them will be found in this air space. So too should your fogging. When done right, the mist will be present for a few minutes and during this time it will coat local vegetation killing any mosquitoes that might be present. Within moments it will all be gone so even if bats were to fly in the area 5-10 minutes later, it’s not likely they’ll encounter any of the treatment as it all will have settled. But even if they did encounter air with active product in it, the chemical will be so dispersed there is just no chance it could impact them since bats are so much more complex compared to a mosquito.

Third, any mosquitoes that are in the treatment area will die within minutes of the treatment. Unlike spraying for roaches and ants which can take days to kill the targeted insect, mosquito sprays work quickly because mosquitoes are easy to kill. This means there won’t be any “treated” mosquitoes flying around for the bats to ingest but even if there was, the amount any bat could ingest to have an impact would have to be thousands of times more concentrated to bother them. True, bats can eat hundreds of mosquitoes an hour. But if you fog properly, there won’t be any mosquitoes flying for them eat and bats are quick to learn this so they’ll quickly move on searching elsewhere to find food.

So to summarize, the use of our FOGGERS around the home in the yard won’t pose a hazard to people , pets or bats when used properly. the PERMETHRIN is very safe (labeled for use on dogs, cattle and other animals) as is the ECO IC. Use one of these actives and in theory, even if you sprayed a bat directly they’d be fine.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Foggers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters

Permethrin 10:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

ECO IC Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate


Hello, i have lot of mosquitos in my home and i have babies, what should i do?

As you know, mosquitoes in the home present a direct threat to you and your babies. I suggest you start treating with one of the aerosol products we have featured in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE.

The METERED AEROSOL option can be set up in a few locations around the home where mosquitoes have been found to enter. You get to control when the AEROSOL MACHINES go off and since they will be automatic, there won’t be any need for you to worry about when to treat. Just remember to replace the refills when they run dry.

If you prefer to spray at your own leisure, get some AQUACIDE AEROSOL which you’ll be able to control manually as needed. Most people find treating in the evening will get most any flying pest problem they might have inside.

Lastly, we also have the organic FLYING INSECT KILLER which would be used exactly the same way as the Aquacide. Just spray a little bit as needed in rooms where the mosquitoes are active and you should be able to keep them under control throughout the summer months.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1926.html

Aquacide Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html

Organic Flying Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/flying-insect-killer-14-oz


I’ve read that some residual insecticides (resmethrin, malathion, permethrin) if applied via a thermal fogger will become a quick knock-down, not a residual treatment.   Do you have any thoughts on this ?

Thank You

Most of the common residual products like BIFEN and PERMETHRIN can be used in either water or an oil based spray. When using a THERMAL FOGGER, you must mix your product choice with some kind of DEODORIZED OIL which no doubt can affect the length of residual the chosen product might provide. Additionally, one of the main variables that can affect the length of time any product can last once applied is heat itself. With thermal foggers the product being applied is no doubt being heated up and this process alone can shorten the length of time the application remains active. Add onto this the impact of the oil base being used as the carrier for the active and it’s highly likely that in the end, the use of a thermal fogger will prove to adversely affect the length of time the product you’re applying will last. Oil contains solvents which tend to ‘break down” actives. For most applications this means a shortened life expectancy.

On the flip side of these shortcomings, there are some reasons why a thermal fogger can be the better option. If you’re dealing with a pest which is mostly always airborne and one that rarely “lands”, there is no need for a residual to be left behind when treating. A good example would be the METERED FLY MACHINES which use actives like METERED AEROSOL. These release a quick 1 second blast of product which is only active for a short time period and usually in a very small area. Even though they don’t provide residual they are quite effective when installed correctly. Thermal foggers can also cover a much larger area than traditional “wet” applications so in theory you can treat a larger area with less chemical and in far less time. Yet if you review our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll note we don’t feel the use of a thermal fogger is really needed for the average person treating the average yard.

So in summary, we are of the belief that the use of a thermal fogger can reduce the length of time any residual active ingredient might last when compared to the same active being applied with a water base. But will this really matter? That’s the key question to ask here and the answer to this question will require a lot more answers far beyond the scope of this post. Give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 for more information on any of the subject matter cited above and for your convenience, here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

Thermal Fogger:  http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2018.html

Deodorized Oil: http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2021.html

Metered Fly Machines:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control


Good evening,

I am looking for a replacement mosquito repellant/barrier I can spray with my ortho dial a spray hose end.

My neighbor and I had Arrow exterminators spray both of our yards all last year with a mixture of “something” and it worked GREAT!! any idea what they use, and do you have something that will work equally, or better?

I am looking for about 30 days per application. Or there about, depending on rainfall

I do have a dog that spends sometime in the backyard who would be in contact with it, as well s a couple guinea pigs that feed on the grass periodically.

Thank you for your time


“bitten too many times in east atl village “

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn we have a wide range of products that can be sprayed or fogged in the backyard. Several of these can be used in a HOSE END SPRAYER like the one you described above. The rule to follow here is based on the size of the yard involved and the amount of area you’d like to treat. Generally speaking, anything under 5,000 sq/ft is easy to “spray” with a hose end sprayer. Once you get over 5,000, it becomes more laborious and the method of misting and fogging should be considered. Not only does misting require less work, it will save time and money. As our article explains, misting uses a lot less chemical and over the course of season, the savings could be dramatic based on how much less chemical you’ll be using. More importantly, mist tends to cover and coat local vegetation in such a way that you’ll never be able to duplicate with via a liquid application.

Once you decide if you wish to use the hose end sprayer or one of the FOGGING MACHINES we have listed in our article, the next decision will be to choose a product that can be sprayed. One of the best is the BIFEN. It’s odorless, goes a long way and can last 2-4 weeks. I use it around my home every 2-3 weeks and it controls most everything including mosquitoes. Add to it some NYLAR (which controls the egg developing process) and you’ll find the length of residual activity to increase. I personally don’t use the Nylar I’m okay with treating more frequently. If you want the longest lasting applications, add it to the tank mix and you’ll get better results.

In summary, we sell what professional pest control operators use so whatever had been sprayed in your yard we can supply. When used properly, these products can be safely applied in and around the home without undue risk or hazard being presented to people or pets. And with the right equipment and products, you too can tackle your toughest pest problems including mosquitoes. Give us a call if you need further help or assistance. Our local number is 770-985-9392 and we’re open Mon-Fri.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Hose End Sprayers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers

Fogging Machines:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html


Hi, Y’all.
I’ve read through your site, and many others.  I see that mosquitoes lay eggs/larvae in fall, and they can last through the winter.
I live in South Texas – sometimes dry, sometimes wet.  I am wondering if I treat [I currently use Cutter backyard which I attach to my hose] several times in the fall and winter if that will reduce the mosquitoes in the spring?
Thanks for any tips you can give me.  I don’t like applying the repellent to my skin all spring/summer & fall, and mosquitoes ring the dinner bell when I step outside after 5 or so pm.

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll see the product NYLAR GROWTH REGULATOR is mentioned. This product is a juvenile growth hormone and when applied to the landscape where eggs and larvae of insects are thought to be lying, it will effectively prevent them from developing to adults. This would be the best product to use in the yard now and in fact can last upwards of 6 months. No doubt applications can stave off future infestations and if done in the fall, spring and summer, most local populations can be effectively controlled.

At this time I would say to add some to the treatments you’re now doing and over time, I’m sure you’ll find the problem won’t start up nearly as soon nor will it be as persistent throughout the year.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Nylar Growth Regulator:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html