June 2010 Archives

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Hello,
I’ve read quite a few of your posts and mosquito control article.  Very informative, I appreciate all the information.
I have a home in the far northwest suburbs of Chicago on 3 acres.  The front 3/4 acre is mostly clear with the house in the middle.  House has a large deck to the back and a walkout basement with a sunken concrete patio that always seems to have mosquitoes in or around it, could be the drain in the patio? or coming from under the deck?  The deck you can stay on only in full sun or you will get swarmed.
The next 2 acres going to the rear of the property are dense woods, with patches of boggy areas that hold water when it rains on either side, very shady and moist ending in a pond that is my guess about 6 acres with about 6 other houses surrounding it.  From about the end of May til fall I will rarely go into the woods because the mosquitoes are so awful, even covered head to toe in deep woods off they are intolerable!
I love my property but I can’t really enjoy it with the mosquito infestation that I have every year.
I have a Buress thermal fogger that I use occasionally now but the effects seem short lived and it just seems to thin the pack more than get rid of them.  Probably best to use that more regularly, maybe once a week and at least keep the numbers lower?
I have 3 big dogs that are out in the back yard and often chew on the weeds at the edge of the yard,
will any of the products leave a residue on these weeds that would harm my pets if eaten?
From reading your material it looks like the
Bifen with the backpack sprayer would be the logical choice?  Do you suggest the Nylar?
Would this be enough to keep the 2 acres of woods clear of most mosquitoes?
Also, I have a proliferation of Boxelder bugs, and Asian lady beetles in the spring and fall that surround my house and end up in my house, what to use on these?  Could you still use the backpack sprayer at least on the outside of the house for this purpose also?

Thank you in advance for your time.
N.N.

Thanks for the kind words regarding our site. No doubt we try to present valid mosquito control options and based on our years of experience, we’re usually able to help anyone wanting to control this aggravating pest which can make any property unusable. It sounds like this is happening in your case so I understand your frustration. The good news is you can knock them down enough to enjoy land. The key will be if you’re persistent enough to establish a routine which keeps them under wraps. And don’t try to isolate any one area; in most cases there are so many places for them to thrive it’s much better in the long run to cover it all and be done with it. Focusing in on small areas will naturally lead to disappointment and frustration so thing of it all as being “the problem” and you’ll quickly get the results you want.

At this point, you’ve already identified the best equipment for the job. No doubt the BACK PACK FOGGER is ideally suited for a property the size you have to manage. When misting with BIFEN, I’m sure you can keep mosquitoes, gnats and other nuisance pests under control. Adding NYLAR probably isn’t needed since I’m thinking you’ll be misting at least every 10-14 days if it’s as wet and shady as you’re describing. Right now here in GA we’re getting pounded with rain so I’m on a 10-14 day schedule with my treating. You can read more about the current situation in this post if you haven’t already:

http://www.mosquitoes.net/best-product/residual-product-for-mosquito-control.html

The good news is I can sometimes go much longer in between treatments. So much of it will depend on the weather. Additionally, since you’ve got a healthy population of pests already established, it should be assumed you’ll be needing to treat more this first season compared to subsequent seasons in order to get the local “pest” population down and manageable. Now to answer some more of your questions..

Once a week would be the most anyone should have to treat. I’d try to let it go longer but you may find once a week treating just one acre is good enough. But it could turn out that treating 2 acres every 10-14 days works too. I guess what I’m saying is that there isn’t a specific answer here; a lot will depend on the locale and finding a pattern that works for you and how you intend on using the land. One thing for sure; if you intend on doing some work outside on a Saturday, treating either Friday evening or Saturday morning would be a good idea. I like to treat the morning of any outdoor event so we can garner the best time following the treatment (which is right afterward).

As for product safety; any of our concentrates you choose to use will be so dilute and dispersed over such a large area, there is no risk to your pets, people or plants – even if treated grass was eaten. I’m not saying this should be done or grazing animals can be using it for food. But for the occasional weed being eaten or toy being used on treated grass will be okay. The exposure is barely if at all even measurable with the product being so diluted and dispersed; there just isn’t enough active present to pose a hazard to any mammal.

No doubt the Bifen alone can handle the problem. Again, adding Nylar would probably be smart as it will work on so many other pests so in the long run, you’d be reducing most all invasive pests at the same time thus increasing the impact of your effort with no real change in what you would be doing. In other words, misting with Bifen alone in your tank will require the same amount of effort as misting with Bifen and Nylar. But the net result would be huge in that the Nylar would be affecting so many other pests the Bifen alone probably couldn’t control.

As for the Asian Ladybugs and Boxelder Bugs; no doubt misting the side of your house would stave off their seasonal invasion. I use the Bifen on my house for these two pests, along with stinkbugs, and the treatments work well. But if you run into a bigger problem which the misting alone isn’t handling it, refer to the following articles for more concise strategies:

Boxelder Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html

Asian Ladybug Control: http://www.asianladybug.com/asian-lady-bug-control

I hope this answers most of your questions; here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above. And feel free to call us toll free if you have further quesitons. Our number is 1-800-877-7290. Be sure to ask for Chad or Mike if you call. Cheers!

Back Pack Fogger:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page676.html

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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HI

Have several ponds with good water movement in my backyard that are filled with goldfish and koi. I am looking for a fogger that is not toxic to fish. Cutter’s backyard bug control has permethrine  that is very toxic to fish.

Do you have some recommendations?

Thanks,

B.R.

Most every traditional pesticide will have environmental warnings about being “extremely toxic to fish and aquatic marine life”. In general, these warnings are valid and should be taken seriously. No doubt the permethrine is in this category and should be avoided. In fact, most of the products we sell fall into this category. But there are some options.

When it comes to spraying or fogging around small ponds, the two products which are ideally suited for such sites are the ECO IC CONCENTRATE and the ECO MISTING CONCENTRATE. Both are essentially the same; the ECO Misting concentrate is designed for use in automatic fogging systems which need chemicals that can remain stable for long periods of time. If you intend on using a hand held fogger, the ECO IC would be the better option. Made from mostly food grade actives, these products are actually quite effective on many pests including mosquitoes. And because of their inherently safe active ingredients, they’re excellent to use in and around the home compared to traditional products we carry.

ECO IC has a great LABEL which includes many pests but not the scary warning traditional products carry. Typically it’s either sprayed or fogged and both methods to apply the finished spray will work. Since you’re use to using a fogger, I suggest either the FM5330 or the FM6309. You don’t mention how large the area is you intend on fogging which should be taken into consideration when deciding which equipment to purchase (be sure to choose one large enough for the area you want to fog). If you need some help choosing give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

ECO IC Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

ECO Label:  http://www.bugspray.net/labels/eco_exempt_ic_label.pdf

ECO Misting Compound for Automatic Foggers:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-misting-concentrate

FM 5330 Fogger:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-5330-mini-fogger

FM 6309 Fogger:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-6309-fogger

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I have bats in my yard. I also hae lots and lots of mosquitos. If I use a fogger to kill some of the mosquitos will it hurt the bats? Are they going to injest mosquitos with insecticide in/on them?

There would be no danger to the local bats nor is there any chance of them getting sick if you started to fog in your yard to control the local mosquito population. There are several reasons; the following are but just three.

First, insecticides target insects. Though earlier products were “strong” enough to affect non target organisms like mammals, the latest products (and the ones we endorse) aren’t anything like their earlier ancestors. In fact, most every product that poses any hazard to the environment, people or pets has been taken off the market. Today’s actives are as safe as can be and are allowed to be produced only if they prove they’re safe. To prove their safety, they must undergo rigorous testing with one of the main objectives being exposure to non target animals won’t be a threat. With this being the case, we are certain the items we have listed in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE for fogging won’t be a danger to the plants, people or animals when used as directed. The real hazard is in the storage of these products since they are concentrated. One must be sure to keep them out of reach to children and pets. But once mixed and diluted down, the finished spray is mild and in fact so safe that many of the products we have listed include labeling for use directly on animals! Remember, dogs, horses and other animals will readily lick themselves so if these products can be sprayed on them and then the animal licks themselves, aren’t they ingesting some? Absolutely. And the only way these products would have a label that allows them to be sprayed on animals would be if in doing so, the animals were not putting themselves in danger. And though a bat might be smaller than a dog or horse, there is just no way they’d ever be able to get a significant amount of pesticide from any mosquito they were to eat.

Second, it’s important to understand how the products work when fogged around the home. Remember, mosquitoes are able to fly. They’re also able to hide amongst the brush and thick vegetation where they prefer moisture and shade. Only when actively feeding will they emerge. The use of a fog is an effective way to target an otherwise elusive pest that can avoid most standard liquid treatments. Fogs and mists will fly around and stay airborne for several minutes. During this time they’ll envelope the area being treated, which should be low to the ground in the 1-8 foot range. Most mosquitoes will stay in the 1-4 foot range as the bulk of “food” for them will be found in this air space. So too should your fogging. When done right, the mist will be present for a few minutes and during this time it will coat local vegetation killing any mosquitoes that might be present. Within moments it will all be gone so even if bats were to fly in the area 5-10 minutes later, it’s not likely they’ll encounter any of the treatment as it all will have settled. But even if they did encounter air with active product in it, the chemical will be so dispersed there is just no chance it could impact them since bats are so much more complex compared to a mosquito.

Third, any mosquitoes that are in the treatment area will die within minutes of the treatment. Unlike spraying for roaches and ants which can take days to kill the targeted insect, mosquito sprays work quickly because mosquitoes are easy to kill. This means there won’t be any “treated” mosquitoes flying around for the bats to ingest but even if there was, the amount any bat could ingest to have an impact would have to be thousands of times more concentrated to bother them. True, bats can eat hundreds of mosquitoes an hour. But if you fog properly, there won’t be any mosquitoes flying for them eat and bats are quick to learn this so they’ll quickly move on searching elsewhere to find food.

So to summarize, the use of our FOGGERS around the home in the yard won’t pose a hazard to people , pets or bats when used properly. the PERMETHRIN is very safe (labeled for use on dogs, cattle and other animals) as is the ECO IC. Use one of these actives and in theory, even if you sprayed a bat directly they’d be fine.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Foggers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters

Permethrin 10:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

ECO IC Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

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Hello, i have lot of mosquitos in my home and i have babies, what should i do?

As you know, mosquitoes in the home present a direct threat to you and your babies. I suggest you start treating with one of the aerosol products we have featured in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE.

The METERED AEROSOL option can be set up in a few locations around the home where mosquitoes have been found to enter. You get to control when the AEROSOL MACHINES go off and since they will be automatic, there won’t be any need for you to worry about when to treat. Just remember to replace the refills when they run dry.

If you prefer to spray at your own leisure, get some AQUACIDE AEROSOL which you’ll be able to control manually as needed. Most people find treating in the evening will get most any flying pest problem they might have inside.

Lastly, we also have the organic FLYING INSECT KILLER which would be used exactly the same way as the Aquacide. Just spray a little bit as needed in rooms where the mosquitoes are active and you should be able to keep them under control throughout the summer months.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1926.html

Aquacide Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html

Organic Flying Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/flying-insect-killer-14-oz