I’m exploring options for controlling mosquitoes around our home. We live on 3 acres of woods. We have a wetland behind the house that holds water thru mid summer. We have been using a mosquito magnet with some success, but i’m thinking i would like to use a fogger a few times a season to really knock them down. I’d like a recommendation please. Thanks. Erik

Based on the area you want to treat, I’d go with the BACK PACK FOGGER. These have been out of stock for awhile but we’re about to be receiving a big order. Ideally suited for 1/2+  acre lots, you’ll be both mobile and independent while using it. I use one for my 1 acre lot but have gone about treating various areas of my subdivision from time to time with the total area in the 2-3 acre range by the time I was through.

As for what to use in the mister; I say start with nothing but the BIFEN. It covers a wide range of pests and works great on flying insects. Plus it’s odorless and easy to mix up.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Back Pack Fogger:


Mosquito Control:


Good evening,

I am looking for a replacement mosquito repellant/barrier I can spray with my ortho dial a spray hose end.

My neighbor and I had Arrow exterminators spray both of our yards all last year with a mixture of “something” and it worked GREAT!! any idea what they use, and do you have something that will work equally, or better?

I am looking for about 30 days per application. Or there about, depending on rainfall

I do have a dog that spends sometime in the backyard who would be in contact with it, as well s a couple guinea pigs that feed on the grass periodically.

Thank you for your time


“bitten too many times in east atl village “

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn we have a wide range of products that can be sprayed or fogged in the backyard. Several of these can be used in a HOSE END SPRAYER like the one you described above. The rule to follow here is based on the size of the yard involved and the amount of area you’d like to treat. Generally speaking, anything under 5,000 sq/ft is easy to “spray” with a hose end sprayer. Once you get over 5,000, it becomes more laborious and the method of misting and fogging should be considered. Not only does misting require less work, it will save time and money. As our article explains, misting uses a lot less chemical and over the course of season, the savings could be dramatic based on how much less chemical you’ll be using. More importantly, mist tends to cover and coat local vegetation in such a way that you’ll never be able to duplicate with via a liquid application.

Once you decide if you wish to use the hose end sprayer or one of the FOGGING MACHINES we have listed in our article, the next decision will be to choose a product that can be sprayed. One of the best is the BIFEN. It’s odorless, goes a long way and can last 2-4 weeks. I use it around my home every 2-3 weeks and it controls most everything including mosquitoes. Add to it some NYLAR (which controls the egg developing process) and you’ll find the length of residual activity to increase. I personally don’t use the Nylar I’m okay with treating more frequently. If you want the longest lasting applications, add it to the tank mix and you’ll get better results.

In summary, we sell what professional pest control operators use so whatever had been sprayed in your yard we can supply. When used properly, these products can be safely applied in and around the home without undue risk or hazard being presented to people or pets. And with the right equipment and products, you too can tackle your toughest pest problems including mosquitoes. Give us a call if you need further help or assistance. Our local number is 770-985-9392 and we’re open Mon-Fri.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:

Hose End Sprayers:

Fogging Machines:




I’ve read that some residual insecticides (resmethrin, malathion, permethrin) if applied via a thermal fogger will become a quick knock-down, not a residual treatment.   Do you have any thoughts on this ?

Thank You

Most of the common residual products like BIFEN and PERMETHRIN can be used in either water or an oil based spray. When using a THERMAL FOGGER, you must mix your product choice with some kind of DEODORIZED OIL which no doubt can affect the length of residual the chosen product might provide. Additionally, one of the main variables that can affect the length of time any product can last once applied is heat itself. With thermal foggers the product being applied is no doubt being heated up and this process alone can shorten the length of time the application remains active. Add onto this the impact of the oil base being used as the carrier for the active and it’s highly likely that in the end, the use of a thermal fogger will prove to adversely affect the length of time the product you’re applying will last. Oil contains solvents which tend to ‘break down” actives. For most applications this means a shortened life expectancy.

On the flip side of these shortcomings, there are some reasons why a thermal fogger can be the better option. If you’re dealing with a pest which is mostly always airborne and one that rarely “lands”, there is no need for a residual to be left behind when treating. A good example would be the METERED FLY MACHINES which use actives like METERED AEROSOL. These release a quick 1 second blast of product which is only active for a short time period and usually in a very small area. Even though they don’t provide residual they are quite effective when installed correctly. Thermal foggers can also cover a much larger area than traditional “wet” applications so in theory you can treat a larger area with less chemical and in far less time. Yet if you review our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll note we don’t feel the use of a thermal fogger is really needed for the average person treating the average yard.

So in summary, we are of the belief that the use of a thermal fogger can reduce the length of time any residual active ingredient might last when compared to the same active being applied with a water base. But will this really matter? That’s the key question to ask here and the answer to this question will require a lot more answers far beyond the scope of this post. Give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 for more information on any of the subject matter cited above and for your convenience, here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:



Thermal Fogger:

Deodorized Oil:

Metered Fly Machines:

Metered Aerosol:

Mosquito Control Article:


I’ve read quite a few of your posts and mosquito control article.  Very informative, I appreciate all the information.
I have a home in the far northwest suburbs of Chicago on 3 acres.  The front 3/4 acre is mostly clear with the house in the middle.  House has a large deck to the back and a walkout basement with a sunken concrete patio that always seems to have mosquitoes in or around it, could be the drain in the patio? or coming from under the deck?  The deck you can stay on only in full sun or you will get swarmed.
The next 2 acres going to the rear of the property are dense woods, with patches of boggy areas that hold water when it rains on either side, very shady and moist ending in a pond that is my guess about 6 acres with about 6 other houses surrounding it.  From about the end of May til fall I will rarely go into the woods because the mosquitoes are so awful, even covered head to toe in deep woods off they are intolerable!
I love my property but I can’t really enjoy it with the mosquito infestation that I have every year.
I have a Buress thermal fogger that I use occasionally now but the effects seem short lived and it just seems to thin the pack more than get rid of them.  Probably best to use that more regularly, maybe once a week and at least keep the numbers lower?
I have 3 big dogs that are out in the back yard and often chew on the weeds at the edge of the yard,
will any of the products leave a residue on these weeds that would harm my pets if eaten?
From reading your material it looks like the
Bifen with the backpack sprayer would be the logical choice?  Do you suggest the Nylar?
Would this be enough to keep the 2 acres of woods clear of most mosquitoes?
Also, I have a proliferation of Boxelder bugs, and Asian lady beetles in the spring and fall that surround my house and end up in my house, what to use on these?  Could you still use the backpack sprayer at least on the outside of the house for this purpose also?

Thank you in advance for your time.

Thanks for the kind words regarding our site. No doubt we try to present valid mosquito control options and based on our years of experience, we’re usually able to help anyone wanting to control this aggravating pest which can make any property unusable. It sounds like this is happening in your case so I understand your frustration. The good news is you can knock them down enough to enjoy land. The key will be if you’re persistent enough to establish a routine which keeps them under wraps. And don’t try to isolate any one area; in most cases there are so many places for them to thrive it’s much better in the long run to cover it all and be done with it. Focusing in on small areas will naturally lead to disappointment and frustration so thing of it all as being “the problem” and you’ll quickly get the results you want.

At this point, you’ve already identified the best equipment for the job. No doubt the BACK PACK FOGGER is ideally suited for a property the size you have to manage. When misting with BIFEN, I’m sure you can keep mosquitoes, gnats and other nuisance pests under control. Adding NYLAR probably isn’t needed since I’m thinking you’ll be misting at least every 10-14 days if it’s as wet and shady as you’re describing. Right now here in GA we’re getting pounded with rain so I’m on a 10-14 day schedule with my treating. You can read more about the current situation in this post if you haven’t already:

The good news is I can sometimes go much longer in between treatments. So much of it will depend on the weather. Additionally, since you’ve got a healthy population of pests already established, it should be assumed you’ll be needing to treat more this first season compared to subsequent seasons in order to get the local “pest” population down and manageable. Now to answer some more of your questions..

Once a week would be the most anyone should have to treat. I’d try to let it go longer but you may find once a week treating just one acre is good enough. But it could turn out that treating 2 acres every 10-14 days works too. I guess what I’m saying is that there isn’t a specific answer here; a lot will depend on the locale and finding a pattern that works for you and how you intend on using the land. One thing for sure; if you intend on doing some work outside on a Saturday, treating either Friday evening or Saturday morning would be a good idea. I like to treat the morning of any outdoor event so we can garner the best time following the treatment (which is right afterward).

As for product safety; any of our concentrates you choose to use will be so dilute and dispersed over such a large area, there is no risk to your pets, people or plants – even if treated grass was eaten. I’m not saying this should be done or grazing animals can be using it for food. But for the occasional weed being eaten or toy being used on treated grass will be okay. The exposure is barely if at all even measurable with the product being so diluted and dispersed; there just isn’t enough active present to pose a hazard to any mammal.

No doubt the Bifen alone can handle the problem. Again, adding Nylar would probably be smart as it will work on so many other pests so in the long run, you’d be reducing most all invasive pests at the same time thus increasing the impact of your effort with no real change in what you would be doing. In other words, misting with Bifen alone in your tank will require the same amount of effort as misting with Bifen and Nylar. But the net result would be huge in that the Nylar would be affecting so many other pests the Bifen alone probably couldn’t control.

As for the Asian Ladybugs and Boxelder Bugs; no doubt misting the side of your house would stave off their seasonal invasion. I use the Bifen on my house for these two pests, along with stinkbugs, and the treatments work well. But if you run into a bigger problem which the misting alone isn’t handling it, refer to the following articles for more concise strategies:

Boxelder Bug Control:

Asian Ladybug Control:

I hope this answers most of your questions; here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above. And feel free to call us toll free if you have further quesitons. Our number is 1-800-877-7290. Be sure to ask for Chad or Mike if you call. Cheers!

Back Pack Fogger:



Mosquito Control Article:



I have 2 acres next to a slow stream that gives me black flies during the day and mosquitos at night.

They can be extreme….we are talking suffocating farm animals bad.
We have a 5yr old and a 2.5 yr old that we would like to keep for awhile and there is a real potential for them to be carried off 😉

We use about 3/4 of an acre of immediate lawn around the house 90% of the time the rest is avoided due to proximity to the stream.

I would any info/recommendations you may have for this type of application?

Clearly your property is in need of a regular fogging program that encompasses at least 1 of the acres you own. Though this could be done with  an electric fogger, the better choice would be our BACK PACK MISTER. It’s larger capacity and portability would enable you to do the job quickly and effectively. I’m pretty sure weekly treatments would keep these biting pests under control and once you knock them down, you may be able to cut back to treating every 10-14 days.

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, flying pests are able to rebound faster than crawling insects so more treatments are needed throughout their active season. But a combination of the BIFEN and NYLAR will control any biting pests like black flies, no seeums, mosquitoes and midges as long as you stay with the program.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above: