mosquito control

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We live in Tallahassee, Florida and to sum up our environment here: hot, wet, humid, and lots of oak trees- mosquitos love us!! I realize that I will not be able to completely eradicate them from our lives unless I want to move the family to the dessert (which sometimes seems like a good idea,) but I’m looking for ways to lower the population. I have read the mosquito control article and am going to initiate many of your suggestions.

My one, or two, specific questions are:

1) we have a large area under a Live Oak tree that is constantly covered with wet oak leaves. If I remove all of the leaves and try to establish St. Augustine grass there, will that at least take care of that particular breeding area? They can’t breed in grass correct?

2) I have a few flower beds around the hose that I mulch with pine straw (and of course the falling oak leaves which I can’t seem to keep out of my yard.) If I remove the pine straw and replace it with rocks, like the white landscape type or river rocks, will that eliminate that particular breeding area? Can they breed under wet rocks just as well as they breed under wet pine straw?

Please help! I am a mother who loves to let her little boys play outside but they are getting eaten alive in our yard, AKA The Mosquito Resort. Thanks- Sarah P.S. If we ever move I am definitely looking for a house with a big lawn free of shade areas and trees, nothing but grass and sunshine! Did I mention I hate mosquitos?

First, as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL article, mosquitoes are quite capable of nesting and breeding anywhere that provides some moisture and shade. Grass happens to be one of their favorite locations as is pine straw, rocks, mulch, ground cover, vines, etc. Basically anywhere and on anything that can hold moisture. For some reason people seem to think mosquitoes need water – as in large puddles or pools – to breed but in fact there are many species that require just a tad bit of moisture to reproduce. These are the species that wreak havoc on most homeowners. Especially if you lot is well shaded and moist.

Second, though you’re effort to remove the leaves and lay sod or small rock may enable the yard to look nicer, don’t do this with the hopes that your local mosquito population will decrease. It won’t. In fact there is a good chance it will get worse. Here’s why.

Dead plants and organic matter like leaves tend to loose moisture way faster compared to anything alive. So once grass or something else living is in place of all the debris, the area will actually hold more moisture (which is needed for the plants now living there) in the plants roots, stems and limbs. It’s in these areas where the mosquitoes will thrive very well. And because these areas can maintain and “hold onto” moisture longer than something dead, these areas will actually get worse mosquito wise. As for rocks; because of their odd shape (irregular), we know that rock piles are mosquito heavens because water will invariably collect on the surface of many rocks throughout the hundreds or thousands you disperse. These little puddles will be prime locations for mosquitoes to target and many times they’ll be down a few layers, out of direct light and well hidden, making the moisture last much longer than normal which in turn “enables” the mosquitoes to thrive.

In the end, as long as you have shade and moisture, you’ll have gnats, no seeums and mosquitoes as the primary biting pests in most any yard here in the  southeast. And that certainly pertains to anyone residing in Florida. The good news is if you fog the property every 1-2 weeks with some NYLAR and BIFEN using a FM6309 or one of our other listed foggers, they’ll be gone for good. These treatments are easy to do, fast, effective and safe for the family, pets and environments. As our article explains, mosquitoes are easy to kill and control when using the right products and right equipment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

FM6309:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v

Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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Hi, Y’all.
I’ve read through your site, and many others.  I see that mosquitoes lay eggs/larvae in fall, and they can last through the winter.
I live in South Texas – sometimes dry, sometimes wet.  I am wondering if I treat [I currently use Cutter backyard which I attach to my hose] several times in the fall and winter if that will reduce the mosquitoes in the spring?
Thanks for any tips you can give me.  I don’t like applying the repellent to my skin all spring/summer & fall, and mosquitoes ring the dinner bell when I step outside after 5 or so pm.

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll see the product NYLAR GROWTH REGULATOR is mentioned. This product is a juvenile growth hormone and when applied to the landscape where eggs and larvae of insects are thought to be lying, it will effectively prevent them from developing to adults. This would be the best product to use in the yard now and in fact can last upwards of 6 months. No doubt applications can stave off future infestations and if done in the fall, spring and summer, most local populations can be effectively controlled.

At this time I would say to add some to the treatments you’re now doing and over time, I’m sure you’ll find the problem won’t start up nearly as soon nor will it be as persistent throughout the year.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Nylar Growth Regulator:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

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Good evening,


I am looking for a replacement mosquito repellant/barrier I can spray with my ortho dial a spray hose end.


My neighbor and I had Arrow exterminators spray both of our yards all last year with a mixture of “something” and it worked GREAT!! any idea what they use, and do you have something that will work equally, or better?


I am looking for about 30 days per application. Or there about, depending on rainfall


I do have a dog that spends sometime in the backyard who would be in contact with it, as well s a couple guinea pigs that feed on the grass periodically.


Thank you for your time

Chris

“bitten too many times in east atl village “

If you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn we have a wide range of products that can be sprayed or fogged in the backyard. Several of these can be used in a HOSE END SPRAYER like the one you described above. The rule to follow here is based on the size of the yard involved and the amount of area you’d like to treat. Generally speaking, anything under 5,000 sq/ft is easy to “spray” with a hose end sprayer. Once you get over 5,000, it becomes more laborious and the method of misting and fogging should be considered. Not only does misting require less work, it will save time and money. As our article explains, misting uses a lot less chemical and over the course of season, the savings could be dramatic based on how much less chemical you’ll be using. More importantly, mist tends to cover and coat local vegetation in such a way that you’ll never be able to duplicate with via a liquid application.

Once you decide if you wish to use the hose end sprayer or one of the FOGGING MACHINES we have listed in our article, the next decision will be to choose a product that can be sprayed. One of the best is the BIFEN. It’s odorless, goes a long way and can last 2-4 weeks. I use it around my home every 2-3 weeks and it controls most everything including mosquitoes. Add to it some NYLAR (which controls the egg developing process) and you’ll find the length of residual activity to increase. I personally don’t use the Nylar I’m okay with treating more frequently. If you want the longest lasting applications, add it to the tank mix and you’ll get better results.

In summary, we sell what professional pest control operators use so whatever had been sprayed in your yard we can supply. When used properly, these products can be safely applied in and around the home without undue risk or hazard being presented to people or pets. And with the right equipment and products, you too can tackle your toughest pest problems including mosquitoes. Give us a call if you need further help or assistance. Our local number is 770-985-9392 and we’re open Mon-Fri.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Hose End Sprayers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers

Fogging Machines:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Nylar:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

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I’ve read that some residual insecticides (resmethrin, malathion, permethrin) if applied via a thermal fogger will become a quick knock-down, not a residual treatment.   Do you have any thoughts on this ?

Thank You

Most of the common residual products like BIFEN and PERMETHRIN can be used in either water or an oil based spray. When using a THERMAL FOGGER, you must mix your product choice with some kind of DEODORIZED OIL which no doubt can affect the length of residual the chosen product might provide. Additionally, one of the main variables that can affect the length of time any product can last once applied is heat itself. With thermal foggers the product being applied is no doubt being heated up and this process alone can shorten the length of time the application remains active. Add onto this the impact of the oil base being used as the carrier for the active and it’s highly likely that in the end, the use of a thermal fogger will prove to adversely affect the length of time the product you’re applying will last. Oil contains solvents which tend to ‘break down” actives. For most applications this means a shortened life expectancy.

On the flip side of these shortcomings, there are some reasons why a thermal fogger can be the better option. If you’re dealing with a pest which is mostly always airborne and one that rarely “lands”, there is no need for a residual to be left behind when treating. A good example would be the METERED FLY MACHINES which use actives like METERED AEROSOL. These release a quick 1 second blast of product which is only active for a short time period and usually in a very small area. Even though they don’t provide residual they are quite effective when installed correctly. Thermal foggers can also cover a much larger area than traditional “wet” applications so in theory you can treat a larger area with less chemical and in far less time. Yet if you review our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll note we don’t feel the use of a thermal fogger is really needed for the average person treating the average yard.

So in summary, we are of the belief that the use of a thermal fogger can reduce the length of time any residual active ingredient might last when compared to the same active being applied with a water base. But will this really matter? That’s the key question to ask here and the answer to this question will require a lot more answers far beyond the scope of this post. Give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 for more information on any of the subject matter cited above and for your convenience, here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

Thermal Fogger:  http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2018.html

Deodorized Oil: http://www.bugspray.net/catalog/products/page2021.html

Metered Fly Machines:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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Hello, i have lot of mosquitos in my home and i have babies, what should i do?

As you know, mosquitoes in the home present a direct threat to you and your babies. I suggest you start treating with one of the aerosol products we have featured in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE.

The METERED AEROSOL option can be set up in a few locations around the home where mosquitoes have been found to enter. You get to control when the AEROSOL MACHINES go off and since they will be automatic, there won’t be any need for you to worry about when to treat. Just remember to replace the refills when they run dry.

If you prefer to spray at your own leisure, get some AQUACIDE AEROSOL which you’ll be able to control manually as needed. Most people find treating in the evening will get most any flying pest problem they might have inside.

Lastly, we also have the organic FLYING INSECT KILLER which would be used exactly the same way as the Aquacide. Just spray a little bit as needed in rooms where the mosquitoes are active and you should be able to keep them under control throughout the summer months.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Metered Aerosol:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1976.html

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1926.html

Aquacide Aerosol: http://www.bugspray.com/item/aquacide_aerosol.html

Organic Flying Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/flying-insect-killer-14-oz

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I have bats in my yard. I also hae lots and lots of mosquitos. If I use a fogger to kill some of the mosquitos will it hurt the bats? Are they going to injest mosquitos with insecticide in/on them?

There would be no danger to the local bats nor is there any chance of them getting sick if you started to fog in your yard to control the local mosquito population. There are several reasons; the following are but just three.

First, insecticides target insects. Though earlier products were “strong” enough to affect non target organisms like mammals, the latest products (and the ones we endorse) aren’t anything like their earlier ancestors. In fact, most every product that poses any hazard to the environment, people or pets has been taken off the market. Today’s actives are as safe as can be and are allowed to be produced only if they prove they’re safe. To prove their safety, they must undergo rigorous testing with one of the main objectives being exposure to non target animals won’t be a threat. With this being the case, we are certain the items we have listed in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE for fogging won’t be a danger to the plants, people or animals when used as directed. The real hazard is in the storage of these products since they are concentrated. One must be sure to keep them out of reach to children and pets. But once mixed and diluted down, the finished spray is mild and in fact so safe that many of the products we have listed include labeling for use directly on animals! Remember, dogs, horses and other animals will readily lick themselves so if these products can be sprayed on them and then the animal licks themselves, aren’t they ingesting some? Absolutely. And the only way these products would have a label that allows them to be sprayed on animals would be if in doing so, the animals were not putting themselves in danger. And though a bat might be smaller than a dog or horse, there is just no way they’d ever be able to get a significant amount of pesticide from any mosquito they were to eat.

Second, it’s important to understand how the products work when fogged around the home. Remember, mosquitoes are able to fly. They’re also able to hide amongst the brush and thick vegetation where they prefer moisture and shade. Only when actively feeding will they emerge. The use of a fog is an effective way to target an otherwise elusive pest that can avoid most standard liquid treatments. Fogs and mists will fly around and stay airborne for several minutes. During this time they’ll envelope the area being treated, which should be low to the ground in the 1-8 foot range. Most mosquitoes will stay in the 1-4 foot range as the bulk of “food” for them will be found in this air space. So too should your fogging. When done right, the mist will be present for a few minutes and during this time it will coat local vegetation killing any mosquitoes that might be present. Within moments it will all be gone so even if bats were to fly in the area 5-10 minutes later, it’s not likely they’ll encounter any of the treatment as it all will have settled. But even if they did encounter air with active product in it, the chemical will be so dispersed there is just no chance it could impact them since bats are so much more complex compared to a mosquito.

Third, any mosquitoes that are in the treatment area will die within minutes of the treatment. Unlike spraying for roaches and ants which can take days to kill the targeted insect, mosquito sprays work quickly because mosquitoes are easy to kill. This means there won’t be any “treated” mosquitoes flying around for the bats to ingest but even if there was, the amount any bat could ingest to have an impact would have to be thousands of times more concentrated to bother them. True, bats can eat hundreds of mosquitoes an hour. But if you fog properly, there won’t be any mosquitoes flying for them eat and bats are quick to learn this so they’ll quickly move on searching elsewhere to find food.

So to summarize, the use of our FOGGERS around the home in the yard won’t pose a hazard to people , pets or bats when used properly. the PERMETHRIN is very safe (labeled for use on dogs, cattle and other animals) as is the ECO IC. Use one of these actives and in theory, even if you sprayed a bat directly they’d be fine.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Foggers:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters

Permethrin 10:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

ECO IC Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

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Which one is better for residual mosquito control:  Bifen, Esfenvalerate, or Eco IC?  Also, is the premixed Cyonara RTS a residual product, or does it only kill when initially applied?

Thanks,
J.

First, all the above listed products provide residual meaning they’ll last for some time after being applied. The CYONARA RTS and the ECO IC will last 2 weeks or more; the ESFENVALERATE can last up to a month and the BIFEN can last several months. However, when treating for mosquitoes, it’s not likely you’ll ever enjoy the full length of residual any one product can provide. There are many reasons why this will happen as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE but the bottom line is most yards will require an ongoing program to solve the infestation problem. This program is something that will based on many variables and in fact the length of time the chemical lasts once applied is actually not one of the more “important” variables.

What is important is how well you treat, how big of an area you treat and the local environment being treated. For example, dry arid areas with little vegetation can go long periods of time in between treatments regardless of the product being used. I’m talking a month or longer. Areas with decent moisture, some shade and adequate vegetation, might be able to go every 2-3 weeks between treatments. Extreme situations, such as those with excessive water, shade and lots of shade, may need to be treated twice a week to stay on top of the problem. My point is the only time the length of residual from the product being applied is really important is when you’re dealing with a dry, arid environment. In such situations controlling mosquitoes and other biting pests is easy.

But if you’re in an area like most people with mosquitoes, it’s probably moist and shady and basically a location where mosquitoes can thrive. If that’s your yard, the real question you need to ask is which way of treating will enable you to get the best protection for the longest period of time. As our article explains, liquid spraying is really only suggested for yards which are 5000 sq/ft or less. When treating 1/4 acre or more, it’s usually best to move onto a fogger of some sort. And when fogging, I prefer the Bifen. I use it in my yard and find I can go 2 weeks or more in between treatments. I live on a acre and treat about 2/3’s of it. Most of the area I treat is shady and moist and ideal for mosquitoes. I also know the length I can go in between treatments varies a lot with the local weather. The past few years we’ve been in a drought and I’ve was able to go 3-4 weeks with no problems. This year is entirely different. We’ve been hit with excessive rain for the past year and I can tell the mosquitoes are thriving. I’m already treating (have been since the end of April) and usually I don’t have to start till June!

In summary, it’s important to realize that killing mosquitoes is easy to do. When treating local property, the real key to obtaining success will be based more upon the equipment you use and not the chemical. If you equip yourself with plenty of “spraying” power – whether in the form of liquid or fog – you’ll find success will be easy to achieve and maintain. But if you try to tackle the problem with not enough “fire power”, it won’t matter what you’re spraying – the mosquitoes will win.

Give us a call if you need advice on what equipment might be best suited for controlling the mosquitoes on your property. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290. And if you’re interested, here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html

ECO IC:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

Esfenvalerate:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page337.html

Bifen IT:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

Mosquito Control Article: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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Hi,

I have 2 acres next to a slow stream that gives me black flies during the day and mosquitos at night.

They can be extreme….we are talking suffocating farm animals bad.
We have a 5yr old and a 2.5 yr old that we would like to keep for awhile and there is a real potential for them to be carried off 😉

We use about 3/4 of an acre of immediate lawn around the house 90% of the time the rest is avoided due to proximity to the stream.

I would any info/recommendations you may have for this type of application?

Clearly your property is in need of a regular fogging program that encompasses at least 1 of the acres you own. Though this could be done with  an electric fogger, the better choice would be our BACK PACK MISTER. It’s larger capacity and portability would enable you to do the job quickly and effectively. I’m pretty sure weekly treatments would keep these biting pests under control and once you knock them down, you may be able to cut back to treating every 10-14 days.

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, flying pests are able to rebound faster than crawling insects so more treatments are needed throughout their active season. But a combination of the BIFEN and NYLAR will control any biting pests like black flies, no seeums, mosquitoes and midges as long as you stay with the program.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page676.html

http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

http://www.bugspray.com/item/bifen_it.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1615.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

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I am interested in the Fogmaster 6309 Fogger. I have a very bad gnat/mosquito problem. I have a very, very large area of mulch that they are probably nesting in. Is the fogmaster 6309 right for me and do you sell the insecticide (pyrethene??) for it. Also, is it legal in NJ.

Thanks, T.

The FM6309 is one of my favorite foggers for yards 1/2 acre or less. It’s fast, powerful and ideally suited for most any pest control need involving a liquid application. You’ll see we feature it in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE as well and it’s one of our biggest sellers.

The chemicals you should use with the fogger can be seen on our MOSQUITO PRODUCTS page and since we’d be shipping to NJ, I recommend the EXCITER and the PERMETHRIN 10. These will work fine and treatments should last 10-14 days for sure.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

http://www.gotosprayer.com/fogging/electric-misters/fogmaster-6309-fogger

http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page28.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

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Hello,
I have a few questions to ask before ordering….
Can a standard sprayer be used with PERMETHRIN?  Would you recommend a special tip?
I ask because on your website information you seem to only show foggers with PERMETHRIN.  At this time 250.00 for a fogger is out of reach, could a Black & Decker Electric Paint Sprayer be used  with a small tip?
Thank you for all the great information on mosquitoes and noseeums. I will be recommending it to my friends.
By the way, we have a small pond in the back yard with limited bushes, mostly just grass and flower beds;  I have been using Malathion over the years with only fair results. I hope PERMETHRIN will do the job!
Thanks!

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, there are many places around the yard this pest can live and breed. The same is true with noseeums. To control these pests fogging is usually the easiest way but not the only way. When dealing with small areas (1/2 acre or less is small enough), liquid spraying PERMETHRIN can do the job. I don’t think using the Electric Paint Sprayer you mentioned would be a good choice since it could very well have contaminates still in it or it’s hose which could affect the permethrin or worse yet something in the yard plant wise. If you go with the concentrated permethrin, either the 20 GALLON HOSE END or the 6 GALLON HOSE END will do the job fine.

And if the area you want to treat is less than 10,000 sq/ft, you might consider the CYONARA RTS which comes with it’s own hose end sprayer. Just attach it to your garden hose and you’re ready to go. Both the permethrin and the cyonara will work much better than the Malathion and since both are pretty much odorless, I know you’ll like using them a lot more 🙂

Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:

http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page339.html

http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-20-gallon-hose-end-390

http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385

http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

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I’d like some kind of organic mosquito control option. I see you have a bunch of sprays and foggers but anything organic?

In our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll find we have several options listed that are Organic. These sprays don’t last as long as the more traditional products but they will work. Certified for Organic Gardening, products like the MOSQUITO AND TICK KILLER RTS do a good job in the yard and can be applied pretty much on any plant. Use as needed and in season this will probably be every 1-2 weeks.

If you want to treat some vegetables or other garden pest, get something like MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER or the GARDEN DEFENSE WITH NEEM. These materials are OK for use on any garden plant and again, certified for Organic Gardens. Since many people don’t realize mosquitoes can breed on most any plant, they fail to treat all locations in the yard which in turn can lead to an ongoing infestation. Be sure to minimize moisture and treat all the shady protected areas if you want to knock out the local population.

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I’d like to know what you recommend as a natural mosquito control for our yard. I have a log cabin in the mountains we like to visit in the summer and fall but the mosquito population is out of control. Is there some kind of plant or animals that eat mosquitoes? i don’t feel like spraying when we’re there on vacation so something low maintenance is what we’d consider.

Natural mosquito control can be accomplished by keeping shade and moisture levels minimized as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE. But if you reside in a moist region which has significant rainfall, it’s not likely that mechanical control done on the property will have a profound impact. For such properties it might be better to consider another option.

A natural mosquito control option that we’ve found works well is the impact a local bat can have. Since bats love to eat mosquitoes, getting them to forage on your property can many times have a big impact. But getting them to forage on your land can be tough. One way  to increase the chance of this happening is to install some bat houses. Start with a SMALL CEDAR BAT HOUSE if you’re unsure any are around. But since bats exist in all lower 48 States of America, it’s likely they are somewhere close. Our MEDIUM BAT HOUSES can house 50-100 bats and our BAT HOUSE CONDO can fit hundreds. Since getting them to move in can take a year or two, don’t expect results overnight. But once they find the house, it’s likely they’ll come back year after year providing perfectly natural and safe mosquito control.

2

What would be the best product to spray mosquitoes that seem to be nesting in mulch? I have 6 flower beds around my house and like to water them 2-3 times a week. The other day I noticed when I got close to one it was alive with mosquitoes that seem to come up out of the pine straw mulch I use. When I moved some of it I could tell the ground was soaking wet and they seem to like the shade and moisture. I don’t want to spray anything that might hurt my impatience, daylilys or iris flowers which are so healthy this year. The problem is when I get close to them the mosquitoes attack!!!

Water is very much needed by mosquitoes and they can find it where many times people don’t realize it’s even present. One would think watering the flower bed would mean the soil gets wet and that all the water would soak down to the dirt making it impossible for insects like mosquitoes to use such areas for reproduction. In fact there are several species of mosquitoes that can live in mulch as explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE. All it takes is a little for them to be attracted and they instinctively know if it’s moist enough for them to lay eggs or not. And even if the wet area dries, the eggs will simply lay dormant till they get enough moisture to complete their cycle at some point in the future so once such locations are discovered, they can become a regular mosquito factory if left untreated.

If the area is small, you could spray it with some CYONARA RTS for quick control. This ready-to-spray product is odorless and quite effective on mosquitoes. It covers a large area, is odorless and even labeled for use on vegetable gardens so it’s safe for your flowers too. Cyonara is ideal for small areas like flower beds and since it can be sprayed virtually anywhere, a good choice to make.

If you want to go completely organic, use the MOSQUITO KILLER RTS. It won’t be as long lasting as the Cyonara but it’s amongst the safest products we sell labeled for use on vegetable gardens with little to no long term residual. Both products are highly effective on mosquitoes and will quickly kill off any in the mulch following the treatment. With the Cyonara, you’ll find you an go a good 1-2 weeks without needing to spray again. With the Mosquito Killer expect to treat 2-3 times a week in season.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Organic Mosquito Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/mosquito-tick-killer-32-oz-rts

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

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I have read your amazing site and it seems you have all bases covered if I want to treat for mosquitos. Problem is I can’t decide what would be best for me!! Is there a simple answer for someone that has .5 to .75 of an acre? About half the yard is open and the other half is filled with ground cover like ivy and shrubs. I know I won’t be able to control all the mosquitos in the neighborhood but if I can just be able to go outside and not get eaten (or my dogs for that matter) I would be happy. Any help here would be appreciated.

Sorry for the confusion; there are a lot of options and it just gets more confusing all the time with new products coming and going. Fortunately for our customers we do all the “leg work” to find out which ones are best suited for their situation. Based on the information you sent us listed above, here is what I would recommend.

I have a yard similar to what you’re describing. I use the BACK PACK FOGGER with nothing but BIFEN in it and I only have to fog once every 2 weeks. It controls everything from mosquitos to ants to roaches to gnats. I could probably treat even less frequently but because we’ve been getting so much rain (and I live on a big river), there is a lot of bug pressure so I don’t want to give them a chance to get established. Over the years twice a month applications seem to keep them at bay whether it’s dry or wet so that’s the routine I stick to and I never have a problem.

Do you have to get a Back Pack Fogger to do this work? Definitely not. For me, it just saves so much time and works so well, it has paid for itself over the years for sure. It only takes me 10-12 minutes to do the entire property and I’m even spraying every side of my house which is almost 50 feet tall in some areas. The point I’m making is that I’m able to walk freely, misting and blowing my yard clean, as I treat it for all kinds of bugs. One of our ELECTRIC FOGGERS would do the same thing but it would take longer for you to get the job done. Spraying would take even longer and over time, you’d probably not keep it up like you will fogging. Additionally, the foggers use almost half as much chemical and get so much better coverage that again, you’ll get better results with less effort and chemical.

One other thing worth mentioning. In the past year, we started selling a food grade fogging compound known as ECO IC which has turned out to work quite well too. It won’t last as long and I’m not sure you’ll be able to go 2 weeks between treatments but we have been selling it for two years and it works for sure. If you are at all hesitant about using the Bifen, the ECO would be a great alternative option that does in fact work well. Hope this helps!

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I’m looking for something I can spray around a damp and shady area on the back side of my house that’s non-toxic but will kill mosquitoes. They get really bad where we like to sit and the citronella candles don’t seem to do much anymore. Is there anything I can use that won’t poison my yard or family?

First of all, any of the products we have listed in our MOSQUITO CONTROL article won’t poison people or the yard if used correctly. There is no need to over apply them and since mosquitoes are easy to kill, little product is needed so you can get control without putting undue risk to anyone or animal in the area.

Secondly, in this same article you’ll see we have ECO IC listed which is an all natural, food derivative concentrate that can be sprayed on anything and providing good control for various pests including mosquitoes. You can apply it as a liquid using a SPRAYER or one of the FOGGERS listed in the article. For small areas, spraying it once a week will keep them under control. Fogging is better suited if you have 2500 sq/ft or more and want to use less chemical and time over the course of a summer when treating a lot.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

ECO IC:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

Hose End Sprayer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-6g-385

Fogger:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6208-trijet-120-v